Admiring her father’s routine of removing his exquisitely-raised bread from the oven and arranging it in large boxes to be hoisted above his head and set on the shelves of their family business is one of Vicky Kluse’s most cherished and vivid memories of growing up at Bova’s Bakery, in the North End.
“The bread would come out like a beautiful cup of coffee: a little bit of cream and perfectly brown,” compared Kluse, the eldest-living Bova. “The bread is so good, especially when it’s fresh, hot, right out of the oven. My mother used to say, ‘Raffaele, you have the hands of Michaelangelo.’”
Enduring determination and care to quality and family are what have sustained Bova’s for 100 years, fostering the shop into the thriving landmark that it is today.
On August 18, the City of Boston gathered in celebration of the milestone anniversary, with Mayor Michelle Wu helping the Bovas serve free cannoli to customers.
“It was a beautiful tribute. We had a huge cake; and Mayor Wu was cutting the cake. We had lines out the door and down the street. It was overwhelmingly positive,” recalled Kluse. “Who wouldn’t like it? It’s a pastry paradise.”
Since Kluse’s grandfather, Antonio Bova, founded the bakery in 1926, Bova’s has been providing homemade Italian cookies, pastries, and bread to Bostonians. A variety of sweets, such as fruit-covered cheesecake, lobster tails, and eclairs, as well as savory subs, calzones, and pizza are made fresh daily.
One of Bova’s biggest crowd-pleasers is its original Florentine cannoli, featuring a crispy, caramelized honey shell filled with traditional, creamy ricotta.
“It’s very crunchy and amazing. People come from all over for this. It’s $10. It’s worth the bite,” boasted Kluse, who nibbles on bread while working behind the counter, or picks at the chocolate chips that have fallen to the bottom of the cannoli tray. “Everything is popular. We have a big spread.”
Kluse enjoys her night shift. Evenings are her favorite time of day at Bova’s. She keeps alert drinking profuse amounts of coffee.
“That’s when this place comes alive. It’s quiet during the day when everybody’s working. I like the action,” smiled Kluse, who admitted that she often serves famous athletes and actors whom she does not recognize.
In the past, Bova’s had baked large trays of pizza to be sold during Bruins and Celtics games at the Fleet Center, and provided bread for prominent restaurants like Anthony’s Pier 4 and Jimmy’s Harborside Restaurant.
Kluse attributes the bakery’s continued success to the five generations of driven Bovas who have made the time to manage and operate the 24-hour business.
“Our family is really tight. That’s what keeps this bakery alive and moving forward. It’s a labor of love,” acknowledged Kluse. “Our families bring their own spin and ingredients to this bakery. We have a big family. They all love working here and they’re fun. They work hard and give it their all.”
Kluse and her siblings’ families rotate running the bakery every six months, with a year off in between. When Kluse’s family has completed their commitment, they plan to embark on a Mediterranean cruise.
Love and devotion have kept Bova’s thriving ever since Antonio Bova, an immigrant from Calabria, Italy, settled in Boston with a dream of establishing a family business. Initially apprenticing with a local baker, Bova quickly became an accomplished baker himself, opening A. Bova & Sons Bakery. Then located at 79 Prince Street, Antonio fired the wood-burning stoves with empty peach crates that he collected from Haymarket Square.
“It was hard for my grandfather way back when because there were a lot of bakeries,” noted Kluse. “The family stuck together during hard times.”
Kluse fondly remembers working alongside her “nono,” who never seemed to rest.
“Victoria, I sleepah standing uppah, with one eye open,” mimicked Kluse with an Italian accent and a wink.
Visit Bova’s Bakery, located at 134 Salem Street, for creamy tiramisu, flakey turnovers, Neapolitans, and cases of delicious sweets.
“This bakery is vintage,” described Kluse, pointing out the Terrazzo-tiled flooring that her grandfather installed in the 1950s. “That’s part of the charm of the bakery. It is home.”
